Large bras place completely different demands on construction, design and materials than those with, for example, smaller cups. What do you need to consider when making a bra in a large size? Here we show the work that goes into sizing our bras at Miss Mary.

A large bust needs a different type of support to a small one. This means that bras in large sizes place completely different demands on the way they are designed and manufactured. It’s common for bra manufacturers to use a different type of construction or switch to a sturdier material for large sizes. For example, cups may have an extra lining or different cut. Or, a bra may not be made in as large cups in the big band sizes as in the small ones.

At Miss Mary we work by a different philosophy. When we design and choose materials for a bra, we always think about how it will look and work in, for example, an E cup, and choose materials that are suitable for large sizes from the start. We then bring our smaller sizes along for the ride, which means they get the bonus benefit of sturdier materials.

For Miss Mary, it’s important that the feeling of a bra is the same for small and large sizes. The models pictured are wearing FLORAL SUN.

An example of this is the width of elastic used. It is common to use wider elastic on large sizes than on smaller ones. At Miss Mary, we don’t have a cut-off point for this and instead use wide elastic in all sizes. The reason is simply that wider elastic is more comfortable. Narrower elastic may look neater, but some find that it cuts into the body when wearing a tighter band size. In order to provide great support, it is important that the bra is not too loose around the torso.

The elastic used in the lower edge of the bra band that fits around the body is available in several widths.

We have many different widths of elastic. Three are pictured above: 13, 16 and 21 mm. Our narrowest elastic is 10 mm, but we use it very rarely. The most common width on newer styles is 16 mm. On COTTON SIMPLEX we use our widest band, which is 50 mm.

Pictured above are two different models of bra, both in a 12C, with two different widths of elastic.

Our wide padded comfort straps have become something of a Miss Mary signature, and they’re padded even in the smallest sizes. Although you may not need this type of strap to relieve the shoulders if you have a small bust, we’ve chosen to use them for smaller sizes as well because they’re just so comfortable. Like we said, small sizes always get a little bonus comfort. There’s usually a cut off at an E cup, at which point we increase the width of the shoulder straps by about 3 mm.

Models that feature padded, comfort shoulder straps have them in all sizes. Pictured is BRODERIE ANGLAISE.

On bras that don’t have padded shoulder straps, the width varies from 14 to 23 mm (see the picture below). Most start at 20 mm, so compared to many other brands our narrow shoulder straps are still quite wide overall. On some models there is a cut off at an E cup, at which point the width increases to 23 mm.

Our most common narrow shoulder straps are available in 3 sizes.

How do the backs differ between bras in small and large sizes?

The number of vertical hook & eye fasteners increases. The standard number for band sizes 10-16 is two for A-D cups and three from an DD cup upwards. For band sizes 18 and up, there are at least three hook & eye fastenings even on small cup sizes.

The number of hook & eye fasteners increases for large cup or band sizes.

Some bra models have an extra wide back with four hook & eye fasteners for all band sizes up to a D cup and five from an E cup upwards. The width of the back is crucial to the support these models provide.

Pictured above are hook & eye fasteners in different sizes, from two vertically to five.

Some bra models have an extra wide back with four hook & eye fasteners for all band sizes up to a D cup and five from an E cup upwards. The width of the back is crucial to the support these models provide.

How do the cups differ between bras in small and large sizes?

One example is when we created the DREAMSCAPE bra (see picture below), an elegant lace bra designed by Swedish couture designer Lars Wallin in a collaboration with Miss Mary. It was important to Lars that even in a size 18F, the bra feels as elegant as a size 10A. To give the bra extra support in large cup sizes, there is a thin, almost invisible, mesh in the under cup. This lining is also present down to the smallest size, even though it might technically not have been needed. DREAMSCAPE has our narrowest shoulder straps, but these are slightly wider from an E cup upwards.

DREAMSCAPE looks just as elegant in all sizes. A transparent lining in the under cup was needed for large sizes, which meant that small sizes also got this extra support.

Nearly all of Miss Mary’s non-wired bras have full cups with a high neckline, even in small sizes. This means that we don’t need a completely different type of cut for large busts. When a bra is cut higher at the centre gore between the cups as well as at the sides, it provides a completely different level of support than one with a deeper cut or lower sides. Everyone should be able to enjoy the security that a high coverage bra provides, regardless of size.

A non-wired Miss Mary bra is cut high at the front and sides in all sizes to catch the bust for added support and comfort. Pictured is the bra HAPPY HEARTS.

Proportionally, a bra looks the same in a size 16C as it does in a 24C. However, if you compare an 16A and an 16G, while the latter of course has larger cups, it’s also higher at the front and sides.

Miss Mary’s expert team of designers and pattern makers have developed a feel for their craft like few others. From left, Marie-Louise, Anne and Ing-Marie.

When our pattern designers Marie-Louise, Anne and Ing-Marie size patterns, they work with each panel for each individual size. That can be over 2000 pieces for just one bra style. For example, for underwired bras they raise the front and sides by about 4-5 mm for every additional cup size, and a little more on non-wired models. There’s a slightly greater increase from D to E cups.

Adjusting every pattern piece to make sure each size is optimal is a time-consuming job, but it’s something that as a quality bra manufacturer we’re happy to do. Whatever size you buy from our range, we’ve spent many hours making sure it feels as good as possible and does not differ from other sizes in how it feels or the support it provides. Read more about why certain models of bra are not made in all sizes.

If you have any questions about which size or model is right for you, don’t hesitate to contact our customer advisers. You can find our size guide here.